Bottom wing skins: pitot mount and flap gap fairing riveting

I replaced the bad rivets behind the inboard bottom wing skin with CR3212s (and one CR3242) as recommended by Van's, for much better results:
Inboard flap gap fairing rivets re-done with CherryMax
I also used MSP-42s for the other rivets that would be nearly impossible to reach with a bucking bar:
Pop rivets for the inboard portion of the flap gap fairing
Pop rivets for the inboard portion of the flap gap fairing
as well as the rivet that sits too close to the bracket from SB16-03-28 (which Van's was very kind to address during the quickbuild process, but left me without access to buck that rivet):
Pop rivets near the SB16-03-28 bracket
My OCD side dislikes having two types of rivets on the same line, but there's no way I'm going to remove and re-set all the solid rivets :)

I then continued with the Gretz pitot mount installation by match-drilling 3 of the backing plate holes through the skin from the inside, which was annoying and required 2 people - one with the drill and another with a mirror to position the drill bit into the hole using a mirror:
Finding pitot mount backing plate hole positions from the inside with a mirror
Pitot mount backing plate match-drilled to skin from the inside
With the two holes near the rib, I positioned the rib bracket against the backing plate and rib (using the mirror to get the right height), then match-drilled again through it. I removed the skin and match-drilled the other 2 holes of the bracket through the backing plate and the 3 1/8" holes through the rib:
Rib bracket match-drilled to backing plate
I clecoed the backing plate to the skin again, match-drilled the remaining holes and marked the main mast hole:
Gretz pitot mount backing plate match-drilled to skin
To cut off the mast hole, I then used the Swiss technique - drill it like a Swiss cheese :)
Mast hole marked
"Swiss cheese" of holes to cut off the mast hole
I then finished it off with the dremel (cutting and then grinding), through the skin as well as backing plate and washer plate (which I had to trim down for the rib bracket to fit):
Main section of the mast hole removed
Backing plate and trimmed washer plate also grinded down to fit the mast
Gretz pitot mount in plate
Gretz pitot mount in place
I then test-fit it again in the wing, and also determined that there's enough wire in the heat regulator box to reach it from a couple of ribs inboard (which is good to minimize interference with the NAV antenna and magnetometer on the wingtip):
Wires from pitot heat regulator to pitot tube
I also drilled and deburred the other cover plates:
Drilled and deburred cover plates
It was then time to deburr the hundreds of holes on the bottom skins, as well as their edges and the corresponding holes on the ribs - no photos of that, but it's most of the time in the time lapse below.

Time lapse:



Total bottom skins time: 34.9h
Total bottom skins rivets: 406

Electric aileron trim assembly

I match-drilled the trim assembly to the cover plate:
Match-drilling trim assembly screw holes into cover plate
then dimpled the holes, installed nutplates and screwed them together:
Aileron trim assembly attached to cover plate
Cover plate with aileron trim assembly underneath
I ran the servo to find the center position, then marked it on the links:
Center position marks on the aileron trim links
The next steps require the aileron pushrods to be installed and adjusted, which can only happen after the tanks are in place, which in turn is pending on installing the fuel return brackets, which are pending an order for 3/8" NPT tap.

Time lapse:



Total aileron trim time: 5.6h
Total aileron trim rivets: 12

Bottom wing skins drilling and fairing riveting

I finished riveting the flap and aileron gap fairings:
Riveted aileron gap fairing
I initially tried my skills at riveting behind the attached inboard bottom wing skin using solid rivets, with horrible results:
Bad riveting on the flap gap fairing
I then removed those rivets and will replace them with CR3212s, per VAF post (I'm waiting for the rivets to arrive as of this post). The other holes behind the inboard wing skin will receive MSP-42s.

I also started installing the pitot tube mount from Gretz:
Gretz pitot mast with nutplates attached
I match-drilled the backing plate, initially just to the spar:
Gretz pitot mount backing plate attached to spar
and then the other holes following the suggested pattern:
Gretz pitot mount backing plate with hole pattern drilled
I clecoed and match-drilled the skin to the stiffeners, ribs and spars:
Right bottom skin match-drilled
Both bottom wing skins match-drilled
With a very good timing, my friend from whom I had borrowed the compressor asked to have it back just as I finished this, so I won't be doing any (air) drilling for a bit until I get a new one (also giving him a chance to catch up with me since he's also building a -10 ;) ).

Next I'll match-drill the pitot mount backing plate through the skin - using a strap duplicator if I can, but if that's not feasible I'll drill from the inside while lifting the skin.

Time lapse:



Total bottom wing skins time: 25.8h
Total bottom wing skins rivets: 362

Bottom wing skins started

I trimmed the flap gap fairing stiffeners, then clecoed and match-drilled the flap gap fairings. The aileron gap fairings needed some grinding on the ends to fit, then I did the same to them:
Aileron and flap gap fairings in place
Countersunk inboard flap gap fairing holes
I then primed the gap fairings:
Primed fairings
And then clecoed and started riveting them to the top skin and rear spear:
Flap and aileron gap fairings clecoed back in place
Flap and aileron gap fairings riveted to top wing skin
I recruited an intern to help with riveting, and she did 120 of them:
Silvia tbe riveter! :)
Fairings mostly riveted
I need to fix a few of the fairing rivets and finish others. I expected to have a huge pain bucking the inboard rivets behind the bottom skin, but thanks again to a VAF post, I'll just use pop rivets for those. After these are fully riveted, I'll start match-drilling the actual skin and the J-stiffener.

Time lapse:



Total bottom wing skin time: 17.3h
Total bottom wing skin rivets: 342

Electric aileron trim progress


I drilled, deburred and primed the aileron trim assembly parts:
Primed aileron trim assembly parts (and others)
I then assembled and riveted those:
Riveted aileron trim assembly
and then installed the servo in place:
Servo installed into trim assembly
Completed trim assembly
Next steps will be attaching it to the cover plate and drilling the pushrod tube for the trim spring brackets, which I'll do after I'm done installing the aileron actuation (since it depends on finding the neutral position).

Time lapse:



Total aileron trim time: 4.5h
Total aileron trim rivets: 4

Aileron actuation progress

This is another section that's not "quick built" and all steps have to be completed. Finally something to rivet!

I started by cutting all the pushrod tubes:
Various pushrods and torque tube cut to length
Match-drilled and assembled the bellcrank-to-aileron pushrods:
Bellcrank-to-aileron pushrods match-drilled
I cut the torque tubes in half (which is a piece of information missing from the manual - VAF saved me again) and build the torque tube assemblies with them:
Torque tubes temporarily assembled
This required carefully adjusting the relative angles of the two sides with a 5/16" block:
Drilling the torque tubes at the correct angles
I match-drilled the ends into the main torque-tube-to-bellcrank pushrods:
Torque-tube-to-bellcrank pushrods and rod ends match-drilled
I installed the bellcrank in the wing temporarily:
Bellcrank in place
After applying primer to the inside of the tubes, riveting began:
Bellcrank-to-aileron pushrods riveted
Torque tube ends riveted
With another batch of primer, the rod ends and tubes were primed (along with parts from other sections):
Primed rod ends and other parts
Primed pushrod tubes
I riveted the rod ends and bolted the forward portion of the torque tubes:
Riveted torque-tube-to-bellcrank pushrods and rod ends
Torque tube ready to install
The next steps involve actually installing the aileron actuation into the wing, which I'll hold off on until the bottom skins are ready to rivet (though I'll likely test fit it just to look at the placement of the pitot tube and other components).

Time lapse:



Total aileron actuation time: 17.7h
Total aileron actuation rivets: 40