I permanently attached the coil pack mount to the engine mount:
Coil pack mount secured in place
To secure the heat control cables to the firewall, I got a custom two-0.19in-hole TTP-S fitting. Installing it and then installing the dual Adel clamps with the engine and everything else already in place was...not easy, but we managed it:
TTP-S firewall fitting for the heat control cables
Installing the TTP-S in place on the firewall recess
We also installed the cabin heat control cables (I insisted on not using servos for this 'cause I want to be sure that the valve can stay closed in case of an engine fire, and servos would melt away pretty quickly):
Heat control cable routing on the firewall
Upon closer inspection, however, it became clear that that was the wrong way to clamp the wire - it was even breaking the washer in half - so we instead switched to a 222-4 B nut, which seems much better:
Heat control cables attached to valves with regular washer/nut, showing the broken washer
Heat control cables attached to valves with B nuts
I installed some of the MAP sensor tubing, though the tube coming from the throttle body can only be trimmed to the right length once the bottom engine bracket gets here (and I'm still designing it):
Manifold pressure tubing connected to EFII sensors
Manifold pressure tubing connected to sensors and fuel pressure regulator (but not yet to the throttle body)
Manifold pressure tubing connected to throttle body
Once those brackets are here, I can secure those hoses and be done with this section.
I secured the coil pack mount to the engine mount structure using a trimmed aluminum angle and Adel clamps:
Coil pack bracket secured to angle
Coil pack angle secured in place, before trimming
Coil pack bracket with angle in place
On that position, I also used the top hole to secure many of the engine wires with another Adel clamp:
Coil pack angle secured to the engine mount
Some people have asked me for a drawing to reproduce that part - here's the closest thing to that:
Coil pack angle with approximate dimensions
Coil pack angle secured in place (top view)
Coil pack angle secured in place (bottom view)
I also installed the oil pressure hose from the engine to the sensor:
Oil pressure hose from engine to sensor
This section also has you run the heat valve control cables to the panel (I'd expect that to be part of section 50, but oh well), so we attached those - one of the center side panel, the other to the center console insert, routed them through the firewall, and attached the center console in that position:
Heat valve cable secured opposite to electrical wires over the tunnel
Running the heat valve cable over the tunnel
Heat valve cables (on the copilot side and passenger console) installed in place
The main things left for this section are securing the heat control cables to the firewall and valves, and connecting the MAP sensors.
I finished attaching the starter and throttle body (cleaning up gasket maker that squeezes out to the inside of the throttle, being careful not to bring any of it into the tiny pressure ports, is not fun):
Alternator, starter and throttle body installed in place
Throttle body installed in place
Back when we attached the governor, we realized too late that the studs' threading didn't go down to the surface of the governor, and had temporarily used 5 washers - I confirmed with Barrett (again, great support!) that this was just a matter of driving the studs further in, which I managed to do with the two-nut trick, and then I secured it with the proper hardware:
Governor studs, sticking out far too much
Using the double-nut trick to drive the governor studs further in
Governor installed in place
Later, the time came to redo the engine preservation - along with the required materials, I decided to get a borescope and check out how the cylinders are doing. Sure enough, there was a bit of rust developing in one of the cylinders (and much smaller patches in the others):
Rust inside the cylinder, already :(
I posted the pictures to the RV-10 group, and Barrett themselves jumped on it :) they decided to have us send the cylinders back for nickel coating, which supposedly makes them more corrosion resistant - so I'll do that just before I'm ready to fly.
For the preservation ("pickling"), the procedure that Barrett gave us was pretty straightforward - spray LPS3 into each cylinder while the piston is at the bottom, twice, so we did that. And because that was too easy, the LPS3 straw had to fall in one of the cylinders 😟 which required some very careful picking to not scratch anything in there in the process:
LPS3 straw that fell inside the cylinder - oops
To prevent the rust from getting worse, I installed dehydrator plugs and a Drybot:
Engine with dehydrator (silica gel) plugs and a Drybot
Later, I attached the coil packs on the engine mount:
Coil pack attached to the top forward engine mount bar with adel clamps
The aft holes did not align as I had hoped with the adel clamp:
Attempt at attaching coil packs with simple bolts
so I'll have to make some kind of support to hold it up firmly at a good angle.
I also ran the aft heat control cable from the pax console insert to the firewall (which required a slightly longer cable than the one Vans provides):
Aft heat control cable in place
I still need to connect both heat control cables to the heat valves on the firewall, once the center console is fully done.
Oil pressure hose and sensor secured to the firewall and manifold block
then attached the rear alternator (which, contrary to what others have said, would've been really hard to attach with the engine in place due to the lower-left nut):
Backup alternator installed in place
and finally, attached the engine in place:
Engine attached in place, held by the hoist
A few days later, I got the courage to actually remove the hoist and let it stand on its own 3 feet (it was in place but loose before, to avoid the engine going to the floor just in case something was still loose, but still putting the full weight on the mount):
Engine attached in place, with no hoist!
Also, just in case it saves someone else time: after a lot of research trying to find why some of my mounts had code "CD2319" while others had "CD2144", and the interwebz falling short, the prevailing theory is that it's just the manufacturing date - 2-digit year and 2-digit week number. All photos I found online of this and similar mounts match that numbering pattern:
Engine mounting isolator showing mysterious code
Also in case it saves someone else time: the old plans call for AN310 nuts and cotter pins, and I thought that was a better option than the newer all-metal lock nuts, but forgot how annoying it is to get the nut both within the torque range AND aligned with the hole at the same time - so this took a while to get right. If I were doing it again, I'd go with the all-metal lock nuts instead.
I also safety-wired the Andair tach opening cap, which I should totally have done before attaching the engine (or even better, before the alternator) but didn't remember to:
Tach cover cap safety wired in a tiny space
Tach cover cap safety wired in place
I also tried to attach the EFII throttle body, and realized it won't work in the orientation I expected - so I'll follow what others have done and have the control attachment at the bottom:
Throttle body connector hitting the sump in my intended position
I also had to rotate the adapter so the MAP outputs are on the right side (since that's where I mounted the MAP sensors), which was a bit annoying to do as apparently Barrett had already sealed that up:
Throttle body adapter in its original position
Throttle body reinstalled after changing adapter orientation
I also started attaching the B&C alternator and starter - but the alternator needs belt tensioning before its bolts are tightened, and I'm missing one Lycoming washer to finish torquing the starter:
Main alternator and starter attached to the engine
Torquing the starter nuts required some creativity - once the whole thing is ecure, there's not even room for the nut itself to go into that space, let alone a crowfoot, so I used a wrench + weight scale (18ft*lb / 3.6in wrench = 60lb):
Hard-to-access starter attachment nut
Another hard-to-access starter attachment nut
Torquing the starter attachment nuts with a weight scale
Also in case it saves someone time: the alternator arm attaches behind the EFII crank sensor, so. you can't attach the sensor until after that bolt is in place (and possibly torqued), which in turn you can't do until the flywheel and prop are in place to set the belt tension correctly:
Alternator arm attachment bolt behind the EFII crank sensor
Last but not least, we attached the governor, using the gasket and N25-66 sealant (special thanks to Bobby Hubbard who sent me some sealant so I didn't have to buy a whole can!! :) ):
Applying Neil sealant to the governor gasket
Only after it was in place and ready to be secured with washers and nuts did we notice that the studs are actually too long! That means the nuts wouldn't even reach the washers:
Governor attachment stud with threads not reaching its base
Not wanting to waste the gasket/sealant, I added 5 washers and torqued it so the sealant got compressed the right amount, and I'll replace those washers (one stud at a time) when I figure out what to replace them with:
Governor attached to the engine (for now, with many washers)
Main things left on the FF1 section are securing all the above items properly, and then the heat valve cables.
