I sent the seat backs to Aerosport to have them covered, and later received them back - they look great!
Aerosport seat bottom
An issue I found is that apparently they riveted a metal backing to the rear seats, without removing the plastic from the metal or deburring the metal - so I removed the rivets to clean it up:
Metal plate riveted to the rear seats by Aerosport WITH the plastic still on!
Once I removed the upholstery that covers that part and removed the rivets, a few different issues became apparent - not only did they leave plastic under the rivets and the full back side, but also the holes were not deburred, some rivets were set at an angle, they hit the seat back aluminum angles with the drill bit on every hole they drilled on the corrugation (this one is not a big deal, I admit, but them not being careful with my work was a bit upsetting), and some holes were below the minimum edge distance.
Aerosport rear seats after pulling up the upholstery
Plastic underneath the rivets that Aerosport set on the rear seats
Rivet set at an angle (one of many)
Hole without deburring (all of them)
Damage to the rear seat angle from drilling the corrugation (on all holes)
Plastic backing left on the back of the part that was riveted on
Rivet hole too close to the edge of the aluminum
All of this was true for both seats, so I can't believe it was an oversight. I reached out to Geoff from Aerosport with this feedback, so I'm confident it'll be addressed if it hasn't been already.
After fixing all of that and rounding the corners, I applied some primer and riveted the backing plates back on:
Aerosport backing plate with primer applied
Aerosport backing plate riveted back to the rear seat
Last but not least, while reassembling the seats I noticed one of the velcros on one of the seats was swapped (the same side was on both mating parts, which prevents attaching that bit (not a big deal, there's many other velcros around it that will secure the upholstery just fine):
Mismatched velcros on the backing plate
With this fixed, the only left for the rear seats is final-attaching them in place.
After the primer batch, I decided to paint the primed interior parts that would be visible:
Painted baggage door, baggage area and rear seat parts
Painted baggage door and tailcone attachment parts
Painted floors and rear seat backs
Painted cover plates
There are aparts already attached to the fuselage that may also need painting, plus most section 35 parts are not finished/ready for paint yet, but I'll do those later.
Overall, painting with the spray can was just sooo much easier than the HVLP, and I was pretty happy with the results.
Time lapse:
Total paint time: 1.5h
(but I'll count the total time in each section for the parts, proportionally)
We primed quite a few parts from various fuselage sections (and even some from the empennage attachment, and for rebuilding part of the vertical stabilizer):
Various fuselage parts after scrubbing with Prekote
Primed fuselage parts on the floor (ran out of space elsewhere)
Primed fuselage parts on the workbench
Primed fuselage parts on top of the fuselage
This unblocks a ton of work, so expect many more posts in the near future.
Time lapse:
Total time: 6.5h (but I'll count it towards each section instead)
While waiting on the weather to prime some parts, I started section 42, the rear seat backs. This starts by fabricating some angles:
Rear seat back angles
Two of those need to be rounded at the vertex to nest in the top part of the seat backs:
Rear seat back top angles, one of them rounded at the vertex
The way I found to do this with some precision over the length of the angle was to make a 45-degree chamfer first until the width of the material was the same on the vertex as on the flanges, and measuring to ensure that the width of the chamfered area was the same throughout the angle, before finally rounding it:
One rounded (right) and one chamfered (left) rear seat back top angles
Forward side of the rear seat back, match-drilled to the angles and hinge half
Back side of the rear seat back, match-drilled to the angles and hinge half
As a minor detail - Van's tells you to cut the hinge pins in half, at 8" - don't :) The removed hinge eyes are not exactly centered, so I found that it's much better to cut them at the center of the removed eyes:
Hinge pins cut in half (top) and at the center of the removed eyes (bottom)
Some of the parts had some excess length which I'll likely trim off later:
This completes all the fabrication involved in this short section - now it's just minor trimming, deburring, primer and riveting/attachment.