Still following the Silpruf method, we taped up the window to protect all but the edge from the adhesive, and sanded that edge:
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| Rear window taped up for attachment | 
We marked the edge of the window on the joggle, then taped up to that line:
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| Applying tape to the cabin cover, up to the edge of the window | 
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| Cabin cover outboard side taped up for installing the window | 
I taped up the inside, too:
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| Cabin cover inboard side taped up for installing the window | 
I then installed the spacers, made from cured Silpruf - one next to each cleco hole, and additional ones no more than 6" apart:
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| Cabin cover rear window flanges with spacers attached | 
We prepared the windows by applying Silpruf to them, removing the outer tape, and letting them sit for about 16 hours:
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| Applying Silpruf to the rear window (or: "Patricia playing with her thick black caulk") | 
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| Spreading Silpruf on the rear window edge | 
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| Window with the first layer of Silpruf applied, and the first tape removed | 
The next day, we applied (a lot of) Silpruf to the cabin cover flanges, and set the windows in place, cleaning any excess that oozed out:
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| Applying Silpruf to the cabin cover flanges | 
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| Window clecoed in place, with Silpruf | 
We cleaned the inside too, and removed the second outer tape:
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| Leveling and cleaning the inside edge before removing the second tape | 
Now this needs to cure for multiple days (I'll probably leave it untouched for a week or so) before I can remove the clecos.
Time lapse:
Total cabin door and transparency rivets: 142
Total cabin door and transparency time: 225.4h












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